The most romantic village of the eastern shore. Train station, panoramic promenade, Castello di Vezio, gardens of Villa Monastero.

The best of Varenna

  1. Walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati
    No. 01

    Walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati

    The 'lovers' walkway' threads along the water between the ferry pier and the old village, hugging the lake at railing height. Five minutes end-to-end, but most people slow down halfway and stay for an hour. Best at sunrise or just before dinner, when the light is low and the path is empty.

  2. Villa Monastero gardens
    No. 02

    Villa Monastero gardens

    A former Cistercian monastery turned lakeside villa, with a two-kilometre garden terrace lined with citrus, cypress and exotic species. The house museum is small but worth the extra ticket. Open March to November, around €10 for the gardens alone.

  3. Climb to Castello di Vezio
    No. 03

    Climb to Castello di Vezio

    A twenty-minute walk uphill from the village reaches a medieval watchtower with falconry displays and the single best view down onto Varenna and across to Bellagio. Combine with lunch at the small osteria on the way back down. Cash recommended for the entrance.

  4. Villa Cipressi terraces
    No. 04

    Villa Cipressi terraces

    Right next door to Villa Monastero, a smaller botanical garden built in steep terraces above the lake — quieter, more intimate, and you can buy a combined ticket for both. The villa itself is now a hotel, but the gardens are open to day visitors.

  5. Find the Fiumelatte spring
    No. 05

    Find the Fiumelatte spring

    A ten-minute walk south of the village leads to one of Italy's shortest rivers — 250 metres of milky-white water that only flows from late March to early October, then mysteriously stops. Leonardo da Vinci wrote about it in the Codex Atlanticus. Bring proper shoes; the path is uneven.

Good to know. Varenna is a small, generally safe village, but the lakefront promenade, the ferry pier and narrow old-town lanes get very crowded in peak season, so keep an eye on bags and phones in the busiest pinch points. The cobbled paths and the Walk of Lovers can be slippery and have low railings near the water, and the SP72 road through and above town is narrow with fast traffic and little sidewalk, so walk carefully. The lake is cold and deep with no lifeguards, so swim only from designated spots and stay cautious near boat and ferry traffic.

Practical info